The Giamba Pre-Fall collection was presented on racks in the commercial showroom. It’s a format that, while allowing for close-up appreciation of textures and fabrics, fails to put a collection’s narrative in a creative context, which is what a review is all about, if I’m not mistaken. Even if the clothes should speak for themselves, as the saying goes, somehow they have to be helped to find their “voice”; that’s why it’s essential for a reviewer to have the designer’s direct point of view. Such a bare approach can feel quite dull and off-putting, even if the clothes look fabulous just dangling on metal hangers.
That said, the blend of romanticism and sportswear here did look pretty fabulous. Oversize was the volume of choice, both for roomy outerwear and dresses. Bombers and parkas were big, with delicate colors giving them a tender note that was complemented by floaty printed dresses, often in a mix of patterns and textures. A camouflage print reworked with floral motifs looked funny and fresh. Designer Giambattista Valli has opted to go fur-free at this little sister collection to his eponymous line. He used fake-fur textures mimicking lynx and kidassia for short coats and jackets, and chose eco–patent leather for a fitted burgundy minidress, which added to the collection’s chic downtown vibe.
