“I went to detox,” said Fausto Puglisi, referring not to a slimming regime in a posh clinic in the Alps, but to his last show, for Spring 2018, in which he traded outrageous flamboyance for a more sedate look. Apparently, however, the detox is over, and La Grande Bouffe has begun again. For Pre-Fall, Puglisi reverted to a more substantial diet of over-the-top more-is-more. As the saying goes, the leopard cannot change its spots.
Puglisi is unapologetic in his attitude; he goes all the way with admirable candor. Here, he gave free rein to his ebullience—the collection was a sort of résumé of all his greatest hits. One could feel the effort of streamlining things a little, smoothing the edges of the provocative streak that in past collections hasn’t served him well, yet he couldn’t keep his flashiness at bay. His creative nature brings him in that direction, but often the outrageousness of his output doesn’t allow his considerable talent to be fully appreciated.
Here, minidresses in candy colors were encrusted with black macramé and velvet curlicues, and topped by net inserts and tassels. Oversize bombers in black leather were emblazoned with pearls or golden metal effigies of the sun, one of Puglisi’s recurring motifs. Black hoodies were trimmed in gold fringe, while hearts and stars were printed on small-waisted dresses with full circle skirts. Elsewhere, a feel of Texas-meets-Cinecittà (the Hollywood of Italy, where Fellini used to film his movies) was suggested by the long black leather fringe that trimmed a pink and acid green overcoat worn over a matching minidress. Puglisi stressed that his clothes are not only worn by celebrities, but also by strong, assertive women from all walks of life. We believe him; they’re certainly not intended for wallflowers.
