Ermanno Scervino is a quintessentially Italian label, known both for a hyper-feminine aesthetic and high-end craftsmanship. Creative director Ermanno Daelli doesn’t really look at references of times past in his design, nor does he revert to trendy gimmicks to make collections relevant. Daelli has a gentlemanly approach to style and an eye for sensuous sophistication.
Take, for instance, his choice of fabrics. The Pre-Fall lineup was loaded with double cashmeres and mohairs, as well as felted wools so soft they could have been made out of feathers, pashminas, and alpaca furs. One could spend hours just gently stroking them as a form of therapeutic calming. It would work wonders. To counterbalance the thick consistency of tweeds and wools, the designer added liquid satins in pastel hues and frothy laces; Chantilly, Valenciennes, and macramé were embroidered or appliquéd on short silk tunics inspired by antique lingerie or transformed into dreamy long dresses with finely pleated inserts. They looked exquisite.
The same dainty embroideries decorated hand-knit cashmere sweaters in shades of lilac or mimosa, which were worn with patchwork tartan kilts and riding coats that were the focus of a collection rich in beautiful outerwear. To underline the feel of soft structure that infused the collection, denim was washed until reduced to the smoothest texture, then printed with animal motifs and cut into tight leggings. Unsurprisingly, sporty references were kept to a minimum. The label’s version of the piumino [quilted coat] was quite luxurious. More voluptuous than voluminous and made in blush-colored silk faille, it wasn’t worn over the usual hipster’s tracksuit or a logo hoodie; instead it topped a seductive minidress, dyed in the same soft pink shade and elaborately encrusted with lace.
