One thing to say about Emilia Wickstead: She’s one of those London designers who’s become a modern “social success” with her fit-and-flare midis, long sleeves, and talent for color which chimes the right diplomatic note—noticeable, though never shouty—at a certain class of reception. These things come in waves in British society, and now that Meghan Markle is about to join the royal firm, things are about to get a lot busier, and let’s hope not too competitive, for designers like Wickstead, who already have the Duchess of Cambridge amongst their clients.
What are the qualifications of a designer to royals and aristocracy? Over 60 years, some things have changed wildly (London society is now crammed with the super-rich of Russia and the Middle East, thus internationalizing a designer’s chances), but some things stay just the same. In the Queen’s young day, it was visits to Norman Hartnell on Bruton Street (watch the delicious reconstruction in The Crown’s second season, when the couturier put on a private show for Her Majesty in anticipation of the state visit of John and Jackie Kennedy). In the ’80s, it was Diana, dodging paparazzi to visit Bellville Sassoon, Catherine Walker in Chelsea, and Jacques Azagury in Knightsbridge. Now, Emilia Wickstead is prime amongst those who dress Kate Middleton. At her classily modern store, wrapped around a corner on Sloane Street, plumb in the center of the eternal zone for royally-patronized fashion shops, the task now falls to Wickstead: How to steer through etiquette and the “appropriate” to end up with something that’s not boring?
Wickstead’s Pre-Fall collection, nominally inspired by Little Edie Beale (her early years as a model and would-be starlet in the 1940s) shows the designer’s ability to stay within defined lines while offering something new. Rather than being a Grey Gardens collection, it is instead destinationwear for those who just might be joining a dynasty, or otherwise need to execute formal social duties. There’s plenty here which can be imagined standing in reception lines at state banquets (the ’60s-look python sheath; the ice-blue princess-line full-skirted gown), at cocktail receptions (a mint green ’40s-flavored dress with high draped neck and full sleeves), and walkabouts (a long-sleeved windowpane checked shirtdress). Presumably, the Duchess will be back to her public duties after the birth of her third child next year. But it’s Meghan Markle who’ll really be in need of a royal protocol–proof wardrobe, as she takes on the planned tour of the Commonwealth with Prince Harry after they marry. Perhaps she’ll look here.
