“Fashion is all about surprises,” said Josep Font from Delpozo’s sumptuous Sloane Street boutique. It’s a significant spot to meet: After a decade of shows in New York, the Delpozo creative director will be moving his runway presentation to the British capital come February. The Madrid-based designer is a longtime fan of the city, and with so many collections to create each year, the lack of a time difference understandably appeals.
This season the designer found inspiration in the work of two photographers: the Italian Franco Fontana’s richly saturated skyline images, and the British native Luke Stephenson’s bold studio portraits of birds. The painterly quality of Fontana’s horizon shots engendered a series of impeccably crafted wool crepe separates, each with their own geometric patchwork of stripes and organic motifs. At times, Font hid the patchworks in the pleats of wide-leg pants; all were in optimistic tones of aquamarine, carnation red, burgundy, and canary yellow.
A freshly acquired ornithology obsession (parrots and exotic birds feature heavily in the lookbook) gave rise to a feeling of lightness and fluidity throughout the collection. It was most apparent in the poplin designs that Delpozo has long featured. This season the fabric was taken to its dressiest extreme with bows and embroidered sequin embellishments (often akin to plumage) on voluminous shirts that occasionally teetered towards capes or took on a dress-like quality. Those wondering what to expect for Fall should start with these playful and transformative pieces.
