Amid racks of clothes in her Marais showroom, Barbara Bui was emphatic that the “pre” part of pre-collection undermines its importance. “You must put in as much creativity, as much energy; these are the clothes that are the most purchased and the most worn,” she said, echoing what many others have maintained for some time. Unlike similarly sized brands, though, Bui has been sitting out the show format for a few years, which relieves her altogether of having to make those grander runway gestures. Ostensibly, she just needs to meet her own standards—however she measures them—across all seasons. This collection seemed well considered, spanning from retail-friendly boots and angora knits to the statement-making lipstick red topcoat and trousers, both outlined with black.
If the allover color, especially the looks in vivid violet and burgundy, conjured up Céline Pre-Fall ’16, this could just as easily have been coincidence—and it’s not like the brands overlap much otherwise. For her part, Bui’s tough-chic tailoring remains an attractive proposition, whether looser and masculine or suggestively vampy when worn with an asymmetric wrap skirt. A zip-front hoodie fronted in shaved shearling, a reversible rabbit blouson, and a great pair of leather joggers were all bids at streetwear—and no doubt women who have bought many of her LBDs will welcome these options. Yet for all the fringe, lace edges, and sport stripes that would not go unnoticed, there was something so satisfying about the double-face black coat; perhaps it was the understatement.
