For Pre-Fall, Au Jour Le Jour’s Diego Marquez and Mirko Fontana were inspired by travelers, nomads, and gypsies. “We come from everything,” they said, probably referring to the mash-up aesthetic that permeates every aspect of current fashion. And so mix and match they did; the collection was a dense melting pot, a whirlwind of fabrics, textures, prints, graphics, volumes, and shapes. There were no specific references to a particular culture or place; it was more about celebrating a generic spirit of freedom.
Following the trend of personal interpretation, the collection was built around individual pieces to better suit the self-expression of the wearer. Today, everybody is a stylist. The designers provided their own version of the wardrobe concept, which has become a new mantra; they called it an “organized accumulation of items.”
Layering was, of course, at the base of the look, as well as patchwork techniques and assemblages. Denim pants boasted tartan patches or paillette inserts; corduroy Bermuda shorts had detachable apron panels; and sweaters were printed with rubberized appliqués inspired by details from Caravaggio’s paintings. Elsewhere, a tweed dress was decorated with long ribbons. A masculine coat with wide lapels was made out of eco-mink, eco-shearling, and tartan; a micro-checked asymmetric dress was worn over a striped miniskirt and an animalier-print leotard. You cannot get more mashed up than that.
