It’s the unique combination of strength and delicacy that makes Sarah Burton’s work stand out—and the almost bewildering level of workmanship she applies to everything that passes through her hands. You’d think a pre-collection might be a place for coasting, or watering down between runway shows. It often is, but not at Alexander McQueen. If anything, this lookbook focuses the eye even more on the qualities she conjures. Between the precision-tailored pantsuits and the guipure lace, the militaria and the fragility, the strictness and the sensuous textures, it’s a visual feast.
There’s a theme running through this one, drawn from nature—which is always her source in one way or another. This time, it’s seen through the lens of the Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts movements—tendrilly, curlicued schemes, rich tapestries, prints inspired by the drawings of Aubrey Beardsley. Among this lineup, she’s nailed trouser suits for day—cropped kick-flares, double-breasted pinstripes—and three stunning black tuxedos. The third variation, merged with boned corsetry in front and a taffeta bustle embroidered with jet in back, deserves lingering over in its close-up. It goes without saying that the McQueen evening dresses, with their streaks of metallic sequins and elaborate embroideries on chiffon, are up there in the category of magical couture-work, but it’s the balance and the breadth of customers that this collection will seduce that makes it more impressive the more you look.
