Albino Teodoro favors an elegant, grown-up approach. His style has always veered toward a certain sophistication. Shapes have a light-handed architectural tilt smoothed by a touch of glamour; he’s passionate about haute couture and the refinement of construction that goes with it.
On his Pre-Fall mood board, pride of place was given to a portrait of the legendary editor Diana Vreeland, looking divine in a sumptuous Japanese kimono printed with mythological animals. The image served as an inspiration for the elaborate patterns of a high-definition silk jacquard, so vibrant and glossy they looked like digital prints. Teodoro cut the fabric into a sleek double-breasted tuxedo suit with slim cropped pants, as well as a masculine trench with inserts of military green silk faille. Crisp, shiny surfaces like duchesse satin and gazar are the designer’s favorite; a short tunic in saffron or dusty pink taffeta was lightly padded, for comfort and for a novel look. Worn with a burgundy turtleneck underneath, it had modern, day-to-night ease.
The same feel of chic practicality was evident in the collection’s focus on outerwear, its sporty vibe almost completely diluted by the use of rich brocades or luxurious double cashmeres and wools. Shapes were mostly trapeze cut and kept linear and sleek, with a hint of the ’60s. Case in point was a chic hooded overcoat, made in a quilted silk jacquard in shades of bronze and golden green; it looked as simple and functional as it was stylish. “I love glamour,” said Teodoro, “minus the drama.”
