According to Tuomas Merikoski, Aalto’s creative director, the Finnish sense of cool is quite peculiar, tinged by a mix of reserve and excess that seems to embody the national character. “We’re not keen on small talk. We keep our emotions locked inside, with occasional outbursts. It’s difficult for us even to say ‘I love you,’” Merikoski explained when asked to expand on Aalto’s style roots. This reviewer being Italian, it sounded quite amusing; the Finnish attitude couldn’t be more different from a Mediterranean culture that wears its heart on its sleeve.
That said, for Pre-Fall, Merikoski tinged Aalto’s Finnish restraint with a Parisian l’air du temps, softening the rigor of Nordic minimalism with imaginative notes. He also tapped into a hippie, slightly vintage-y vibe, loosely referencing the alternative music label Love Records, which was big in Finland in the ’70s. He used its original, slightly erotic graphics on patches decorating T-shirts and high-waisted pleated denim pants; read in reverse, the word love became evol. Introverted as they might be, the Finnish can be quite naughty, too. And under the surface, sentimentality also runs high; apparently, there’s a big tango community in Finland.
And so, a feminine feel could be perceived throughout the collection, which nicely complemented the more masculine, utilitarian, and techy elements that are typical of the brand. Take, for instance, the softness of the mohair on an oversize trench worn with mega-flared palazzo pants, or the drawstring ruching and highlighted waistline on a tailored pantsuit. The same feel was expressed by gentle smock details on a little red frock and by the black tulle appliqués replicating a slip-dress shape on a pristine white tunic. A touch of lilac pink graced the surface of an ample, cozy duvet coat filled with recycled natural down material, its checkered gray lining complementing the A-line midi dress worn underneath. It all made for a modern lineup with a cool visual appeal. Helsinki to Paris with a detour in Buenos Aires seems like a pretty interesting itinerary.
