Where most designers defer to a uniform of white tee and jeans, Phillip Lim enjoys getting dressed for work. He showed up to the Pre-Fall appointment at his showroom in Soho today wearing an expertly layered look that echoed many of the cool utilitarian details that inspired his collection, starting with a quilted military coat. That said, it was sailors and not soldiers who were among the main influences here, though the aforementioned jacket was referenced in Lim’s new reversible army-green knits sweatshirts and asymmetric skirts. Fisherman’s sweaters have been trending on the runway for a couple of seasons now, and Lim picked up the thread of that fashion obsession to explore the outer regions of a seafaring wardrobe. He deconstructed sailor pants and reimagined them as chic midi-length skirts to be worn according to the wearer’s whim, either demurely buttoned up or with a thigh-grazing off-kilter hem.
A folkloric vibe wove its way through the collection, as well; the functional-meets-homespun mix was best exemplified by a rain mac that combined technical bonding and metal hardware with soft crocheted binding. There were also noteworthy artisanal experiments on the prettiest elements of a woman’s wardrobe; the mushroom pleated satin and cotton dresses that were gently frayed had a rare keepsake quality. Lim is selling those delicate slips as a set with his cropped Aran sweaters, a compelling new take on a downtown uniform and a smart move on his part.
