What do you get when you cross the Tudors, England’s 16th-century rulers, with Madonna in a Jean Paul Gaultier cone bra circa 1990? Vera Wang’s new Fall offering, that’s what. Wang claimed the Tudors as a reference point via exceedingly brief collection notes; Truth or Dare–era Madonna is just a personal hunch—Gaultier has been in the air this season. Funnily enough, so have medieval times. Even strong women need a sturdy defense in 2018.
Wang modeled her shoulder construction on articulated metal armor and lifted the bulbous peplums and derriere-enhancing domes cantilevered into existence with horsehair from knights’ costumes. (The miniskirt with the dome in front was dead on arrival.) The armor concept carried over into the softer, more lingerie-like pieces—they don’t call them bullet bras for nothing. In addition to padded brassiere cups, there were also padded tushes. To be sure, this was not your standard eventwear; Wang spent the first part of her design career becoming the most famous wedding dressmaker in the world and the remainder of it acting like she isn’t.
Her best idea here was her flared pants. Flares are having a moment, too. What was special about Wang’s was their exuberance. One pair pooled and rippled like a fancy double train. Come to think of it, they’d look pretty terrific on a red carpet.