Where to begin? The setting alone was unimaginably spectacular. Picture the Bethesda Fountain in Central Park—the scene of countless iconic New York movies, including Annie Hall—where Ralph Lauren gathered an A-list crowd of at least 200 friends and family for a moonlit celebration of his brand’s 50th birthday. Hillary Clinton, Oprah, Steven Spielberg, Robert De Niro, and Kanye West were just some of the faces in the front row tonight, not to mention Lauren’s esteemed fashion colleagues—Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, and Diane von Furstenberg, to name a few.
Featuring well over 100 looks, the anniversary show was historic in scope and scale. The opening fashion message leaned into the singular brand of American elegance that Lauren is known for. One part grit, three parts grace, the clothes ran the gamut of military surplus, cozy flannels, and tactile opulence in the form of velvet patchwork and delicately fringed sequins. Those counterintuitive impulses often found themselves operating most effectively in the same outfit: think, a glittering bias-cut skirt paired with a cozy Army green pullover and sparkling baroque costume jewelry. Even the most precious pieces seemed touched with an approachable kind of sumptuousness. The meticulously disheveled velvet appliqué on one standout coat was especially eye-catching.
The most moving part of the show, however, was the passage of Polo Ralph Lauren looks. With a combination of familiar names (Carolyn Murphy, Gigi Hadid, et al.) and adorable kids who walked the runway for the first time, that section felt like a tribute to the modern American family. It was brimming with all of the most beloved preppy Lauren tropes, too—varsity jackets, patch-pocket tweed blazers, polo shirts in happy primary colors, and of course, those unmistakable teddy bear sweaters.
Lauren is the father of American sportswear. The very notion of a lifestyle brand started with him. Indeed, in the five decades since he began, he has managed to export the allure of a nation in a way no other American fashion brand has been able to. Like Coca-Cola or Nike, Ralph Lauren is as American as apple pie. And the emotional resonance of his designs was more palpable than ever tonight. The designer took a victory lap with tears in his eyes, and there was barely a dry eye in the house.
As a prelude to the postshow dinner, Oprah Winfrey gave a touching speech that encapsulated the mood, retelling her own origin story, as a young reporter in Baltimore. “Back then my idea of celebrating success wasn’t to go out and get a fancy car or jewelry. It was a closet full of Ralph Lauren towels . . . they represented a sense of comfort, luxury, aspiration,” she said, raising her glass for a toast and turning towards Lauren. “Your designs define an unwavering integrity, and that is why we are here tonight.”
