The 1980s are Fall’s biggest trend so far, which means it should be a good season for Lorenzo Serafini. A child of the decade, he’s made it a reference point since joining this label three years ago, tweaking things depending on his muse, be it Brooke Shields, Princess Diana, or Siouxsie Sioux. Tonight, it was Margaux Hemingway, whose name—she’s granddaughter to Ernest Hemingway—is perhaps better known than her look.
Leaving her aside, let’s just call this a very American collection, heavy on denim, suede fringe, prairie frills, and Western detailing, most notably on a great mid-heel bootie loaded up with hand-tooled metalwork and turquoise. Serafini is going all in on jumpsuits for Fall, not just in denim, but also in a comfy charcoal ribbed knit; in the show notes he called it a union suit, conjuring images of prospectors heading west during the Gold Rush. It wasn’t as hardscrabble as all that, though. The second half of the show was tilted more urban with black velvet, pink lace, and polka-dotted tulle. This child of the ’80s had a pink taffeta pouf skirt very much like the one that strutted down this runway.
The gold leather pieces could’ve been edited out and no one would have missed them. We were about to say the same for the fox fur coat and chubby until we read that they were faux. They’re very believable fakes. What was new for Serafini and interesting was a plaid pantsuit. A frilled white collar underneath and belted waist did not detract from its tomboyishness. That’s a trait—echoed in those denim all-in-ones and comfy union suits—we’d be happy to see him explore more.
