The protection message has been so ubiquitous for Fall, we might as well declare it the new black (sorry, couldn’t resist). To a large degree, Nehera can claim this authentically; wrapping and layering have been hallmarks of the Slovakian brand since it relaunched in 2014, and shapes often envelop and skim rather than cling. As explained by creative director Bibiana Zdútová, the idea didn’t hinge on global affairs so much as the recreational setup of emerging from a hot steam properly bundled to confront the elements. Hence the tiling print as a nod to Ottoman bathhouses. More interpretive were the open-seamed rip-stop pants worn over cashmere leggings, or quilted dungarees and shawl tops that cosseted the body beyond what would ordinarily be expected of them.
Meanwhile, the wintry lookbook images, once again thoughtfully rendered by Michal Pudelka, were shot just outside Bratislava; there, textured down jackets, layered utility coats, and shearling bonnets would certainly serve a purpose. “Each piece has to have a reason to exist,” said owner Ladislav Zdút. On a day when temperatures in Paris dipped below freezing, it wasn’t a stretch to imagine an editor making the rounds in the chic shearling wrap skirt, especially given its surprising slimness. The reversible shearling coat, gray like an overcast sky, also looked rather smart—until the model turned around and her back revealed an impractical open vent. An easy adjustment for retail will rectify this, yet it was the perfect example of how some of the clothes, and also the footwear, ended up overworked. The Nehera aesthetic is most persuasive when it bridges monastic and modern without trying too hard. Any of the tailored coats in double-faced wool or else the relaxed bouclé pants marked a comfort zone for both brand and wearer alike.
