When was the last time Milan was hot? Like, really, really hot? Was it circa 2004 when Tom Ford sent out his Gucci swansong on a bed of white rose petals? Or further back in the late ’90s when Gianni Versace was at his acme? Fashion historians can argue the dates, but this much is true, from Gucci to Marni to Versace, in 2018, Milan is on the upswing again. MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti has noticed. His new collection was a love letter to his hometown. In a season when logos and slogans continue to dominate the conversation at this mid-tier price point, Giorgetti’s tribute to popular local hangouts—Cucchi, Bar Basso, and Jamaica, among others, on intarsia sweaters and team scarves—seemed earnest and true.
His ode to Milan didn’t stop there. The collection began with a group of all-black looks, which he said was a tribute to the city’s minimalist ’90s days. A black-and-white photo of Anna Dello Russo before she was a street style star was the avatar of this section. Head-to-toe black is a departure for Giorgetti, but he compensated for the show’s somewhat dour beginning with a finale series of collectible silk pajama sets in logo, souvenir, and animal prints.
In between, he touched on trending items seen elsewhere, like security blankets clutched between forearm and torso (Céline) and faded, baggy blue jeans and thigh-hugging over-the-knee boots (Vetements). That’s standard practice at contemporary brands, and Giorgetti’s lifting was less flagrant than that of other designers we’ve seen this season. The best part of this collection were those bar logo sweaters and scarves. It really does pay to listen to your heart.
