There was a patchwork coat early in this Missoni show that was pieced together from vintage swatches Angela Missoni discovered in the archive. Backstage she said, “This is Missoni’s 65th anniversary; I thought, Let’s start celebrating.” It’s a tribute to both the longevity and the timelessness of the label founded by Angela’s parents Rosita and Tai that the double-breasted, calf-length coat mixed so effortlessly with Angela’s own creations—ditto a pair of ’70s-ish patchwork flares. Mix is absolutely the right word here. Missoni said the collection was a hodgepodge of cultures—Scottish, Jamaican, African, and Italiano, certo. Photos of Jean-Michel Basquiat, Robert Mapplethorpe, and Lisa Bonet were pinned to the mood board, so there was New York in the late ’70s and early ’80s, too.
It was a lively, evocative jumble, with men’s and women’s shown together for the second season running. Layering was key to the look, more so for the girls than the guys. As bold as the palette was, the interplay of texture was even more inventive. It ranged from tissue-fine Lurex and delicate fringing to substantial ribbed knits, chunky multi-plies, and fuzzy brushed mohairs. As for the pattern play, it was kaleidoscopic: stripes, zigzags, leopard spots, and talismanic animal patches mingled on one particularly vibrant outfit. Another combined soft plaid, a deep hem of fringe, and space dye. A backstage riffle through the racks confirmed what Missoni said: All of it was remarkably light. That’s an innovation that’s happened on her watch. On their own, individual pieces will be even more compelling.
If there was an off note, it was the concrete runway slicked as with rain. There’s nothing sexier than nonchalance, but knowing the value of Missoni’s knits it was almost painful to watch as the wide flares and maxi skirts—not to mention the sweaters and jackets the models carried in their hands—got waterlogged. Counterpoint: Missoni’s casting stood out in Milan for its diversity.
