Ducking backstage postshow at Haider Ackermann, we caught the last moment of a group cheer; the designer was surrounded by models who wore spiky shag wigs and a rainbow of bright colors. After pecking a few of them on the cheek, Ackermann turned to a clutch of us attentive reporters. “We’re going through strange times; I wanted to have this fragility, but [also] something very uplifting,” he explained. Hence those electric hues: absinthe green for almost-sporty outerwear, spicy orange for silk suits, and sky blue on the tights and satin lace-up stiletto booties that punctuated most of the looks.
Considering this was a collection consisting predominantly of tailoring, he conveyed the fragility more abstractly via, say, the delicate white embroidery on an orange jacquard suit, the soft frills of ruffles trimming jackets that were tied peplum-like around the models’ waists, or the pink velvet lining of a black vinyl coat. The collar and bodice of a chartreuse-color shirtdress were decorated with more of those tiny ruffles; otherwise, his dresses were as clingy and sleek as a dancer’s leotard.
There were not many new ideas from Ackermann this season, but, as he said: “strange times.” His fans will find comfort in the recognizability of the attenuated silhouettes and the subtle flourishes. There’s assurance in stability; still, one wonders: What would a leap of faith look like for Ackermann these days?
