There was fierce preshow jockeying before this morning’s Each x Other presentation, as young fashion fans Instagrammed photos from behind the strips of film negatives that served as the show’s set downstairs in cramped quarters at the brand-new Hôtel des Arts et Métiers. For many preeners, the whole thing spelled novelty. For the designers, it was the springboard for the season—starting with, but not limited to, the clothes.
Setting aside the improbable suit with ombré fringe that opened the show, Each x Other’s Fall outing ticked all the major trend boxes, including menswear fabrics, fluid lamé, darkly romantic florals, transparency, shine, and seasonal hues like lavender and mint. The boots—in white with blue Perspex heels or with red Western-style embellishments—were right on trend. So, too, were the message pieces—but then again, this brand was first out of the gate on that one, years ago.
This season, house poet Robert Montgomery collaborated with the photographer Fabio Paleari, who has been part of the Each x Other collective for years. Montgomery’s words and the photographer’s series “Dark Chlorophyll” were the backbone of the collection. “We liked the idea of making this collection about dark contrast,” the brand’s cofounder Jenny Mannerheim said backstage. “We want to be classic, but with something new. You can be feminine and have masculine energy.”
Cue men’s fabrics embroidered with dark florals; shine borrowed from the film reels, transposed in slick lamé; a translucent raincoat; and a number of glossy color finishes. Biker inspirations—“leather girls”—are Each x Other’s base. Not that their customer is immune to florals or photo prints (in this case, printed on leather), it’s just that she has places to go and needs to travel light.
This show was a teaser for an upcoming show between Each x Other and Paleari, opening in Paris next month. Then, in May, a biker project will come to New York in time for the pre-collections: Seven artists from the Each x Other collective will offer their rendition of a biker jacket. The results will be shown in an art gallery, not on the runway.