Last season’s collection title, Paris Blossom, has given way to this season’s French Kiss. If these register a tad twee or cliché, perhaps there’s something to be said for Alexis Mabille perpetuating this image of la femme française even as other local designers explore an altogether different look. Taking a pause from the runway, he presented a range of flamboyant separates at his boutique-cum-showroom, first showing off a gemstone photo-print magnified so enormously in scale that it filled the front of a drawstring-waist tunic. What followed was a jewel-toned palette extending into gradient shades of Prussian blue and fuchsia, which Mabille applied to voluminous silk poplin skirts and dresses as breezy as silk scarves. The lineup was full of flounce; yet cuffs and skirt elements could be removed thanks to rows of diamond-effect buttons—a brilliant touch, so to speak.
Certainly, Mabille was smart to give shirtdresses enough leeway to be properly flirty when worn barelegged, or relaxed as a pajama look when paired with trousers. The range of blouses, freshly enhanced with lace inserts, pleated high collars, and tonal embroideries, remains the designer’s strong suit, maybe even more so than all his tuxedo riffing. When he veered away from his couture sensibility—faux leather coaxed into tear-away pants and a crunchy bubble skirt (blame the crinoline)—the results were less assured. Then again, a quilted bolero in shiny gold bordered with black might attract a big name who wouldn’t ordinarily be drawn to Mabille’s usual mix of cocktail and party attire. The Brash Bourgeois title is his for the taking.
