Scan the lineup from Alexis Mabille’s show and you won’t get a strong sense of fall. The palette was predominantly weighted toward pastel pinks, blues, and purples; dresses in allover lace and gowns that cascaded with tulle didn’t favor one season over another, nor did the long sheath dresses with their asymmetrical necklines, wrapped waists, or tuxedo detailing. Some of the shirtdresses looked downright beachy. The designer admitted as much, saying that his impulse was to impart “freshness and sensuality,” rather than limit himself to a seasonal construct, which might not even pertain to how or where his clientele lives.
The freshness certainly came forth in watercolor floral motifs that had been hand-painted, and an attractive black-and-white stripe organza dress that excited the eye with its strong graphic statement. A slim black tuxedo and two versions of a couture blouson in geometric brocade were freshest and coolest of all mostly because, if you were to splurge on them, you would wear them frequently.
But Mabille’s forte remains the special occasion gowns, often taking a go-big-or-go-home approach to volume. (Should a silhouette take priority over sitting down?) Worth noting was how he downplayed the surface detail this season, hiding sequin embroideries within the tulle layers so they would softly shine through. Still, what became clear is that such fine workmanship remains at the service of an idealized woman. “There will always be this desirability,” he explained. “Ultimately, I’m reflecting from the perspective of a man—what would give these women that extra aspect of vibration—because then they see someone they want to marry or make love to. And I find that very interesting because it becomes about more than the creation.” Whether you agree or take issue with that, his twist on the traditional wedding dress—a jumpsuit in Lyon and Chantilly lace topped with a sweeping satin skirt extending upward as a bow-cum-bodice—was a winner.
