Massimo Giorgetti decided months ago to present his collection on real Italian students: “We did an extensive casting in all the Milanese universities and we picked up great new faces,” he said backstage before the show. It was fittingly staged in Milan’s historic Università Statale, which in the ’70s was the cradle of progressive political groups. The designer was upbeat and in good spirits; how could he not be, surrounded as he was by brainy students so good-looking you wanted to go back to your alma mater and resume your academic studies at once.
Giorgetti riffed on MSGM’s elevated street–meets-preppy fashion codes this season, working a community-versus-individuality dynamic around which the Italian cultural identity actually revolves; he gave the look a stylish, quietly rebellious attitude. “While researching for the collection we scouted for new logos, and we found the best inspiration on school desks or on bathroom walls, scrawled with a web of layered graffiti,” he explained. These were turned into new mottos and emblazoned on block-paneled puffer jackets, tailored hoodie city coats, or fleece sweaters with a vintage feel. Some of the catchphrases were quite funny, verging on the totally incongruous, being the quite literal Italian translation of English idiomatic slang. Yet they were in keeping with the free-spirited, fresh, and cheerful attitude that Giorgetti wanted to convey.
“Less street, more chic, almost bravo ragazzo (good guy),” explained Giorgetti. There was plenty in the show to be liked by the bravo ragazzos: a big hoodie anorak printed with the map of Milan worn over Bermudas; high-waisted denim jogger pants paired with a pink satin shirt; chunky, zippered teddy bombers with alpine motifs; tailored coats with logos tagged on the back. The gigantic proportions favored elsewhere were replaced here by softer, more balanced silhouettes, less invasive and overwhelming. Perhaps closets are bursting with ginormous outerwear that takes too much space and needs clearing, who knows? As Giorgetti cleverly heralded in one of his new logos, “It’s time for a change.”
