The Missoni showroom where the men’s collection was displayed today was set up with an installation by Italian artist Loredana Longo, a longtime favorite of Angela Missoni. Antique Persian carpets were scattered on the floor; their wool texture was ‘carved’ using a burnt oil technique, revealing political catchphrases such as “Now is time to turn the page,” “We need to seek concrete actions and not just words,”and “Now is the time to act.” Asked about the message she wanted to convey with the choice of such artwork, Angela forcefully answered: “It’s time for men to become militant, too.”
She was obviously referring to the #MeToo movement, which has ignited a global debate on sexual abuse and the right to speak out. Angela feels passionate about it and doesn’t mince words when discussing the topic. But the men’s collection wasn’t intended to appeal just to activists or to a politically minded audience; it was more about the artistic subtext than about statements. The designer emphasized the label’s longtime connection with the progressive art scene, nurtured through the years by her parents. “I have countless pictures of them hanging around with famous artists, all wearing our knitted sweaters,” she explained. “Art has always been in our family history; that’s who we are.” And when art is able to convey a poignant, eloquent message, so much the better.
Angela referred to New York’s creative scene in the late ’70s as the inspiration for the collection, built as a wardrobe of individual pieces. As usual, the color did the talking. Being a born colorist, she was able to give a strong visual impact to striped blazers, grandpa-style cardis, and chunky sweaters through inventive color combinations. Bronze, cerulean, electric green, and orange created a chromatic rhythm that was syncopated and eye-catching; jacquard patterns on brushed mohair were so elaborate they required 45 different colors and an intricate patchwork stitching technique to achieve their abstract effect.
Silhouettes were relaxed, layered, and softly tailored; a play of textures and patterns gave a rich, sensuous, tactile feel to comfortable shapes. An ample overcoat in patchwork tweed was a standout, as was a striped wool suit worn under a lightly padded checkered parka.
Missoni style is about consistency; keeping the flame alive while refreshing and updating its legacy is Angela Missoni’s mission. The label’s visual appeal radiates a positive energy and resonates with younger generations; with an even stronger presence and direction, it could become really relevant today, its vibrancy a tool to fight our gloomy, difficult times.
