Although the twin sons of Kiton’s CEO Antonio De Matteis have been involved in the business for the past seven years—and they’re only 26—today’s presentation marked their debut stand-alone project. Labeled KNT for Kiton New Texture, the capsule consists of pieces that could be compared to the iPhone X of jogging suits. In 14-micron wool stretch—almost baby-skin soft—the dark gray single-pleat, cuffed pants make classic jersey seem as clunky as a Discman, while seamless covered plackets give the impression that jackets no longer have home buttons. Wool-paneled sneakers with sport bands and aerodynamic soles are all rounded corners. Walter and Mariano De Matteis have near-model stature, so they were ideal poster boys, and it wouldn’t be a leap to imagine their high-net-worth peers barely blinking at the remarkable prices (upwards of $1,500 for a hoodie). But even more than an iPhone X, the KNT range is entirely discretionary, so it will be interesting to see how it performs at retail. If nothing more, now that the brothers are taking on a more visible role, they might prove an asset, putting a face to Kiton beyond a worldly, well-dressed league of one percenters.
Still, the showroom was staged as usual with updates on categories that Kiton considers its essentials. The interiors of the brand’s famous vicuña jackets now come bearing a subtle print on the inside or a double-face yangir cashmere lining, for example. Only a handful of people might ever see either, but they certainly succeed in sartorial one-upmanship. As De Matteis père skimmed past a substantial selection of outerwear with features that ranged from technical thermal lining in the brand’s signature red, to eight-ply cashmere sweaters and patterned shirts, different personalities and purposes came through more noticeably than with suiting—which is always difficult to discern on the rack. Men, he said, are buying more of this clothing since they might change six times over a weekend, whereas they can extend a few suits through the week. Hence the reason for KNT, even if some customers—De Matteis includes himself among them—might stop shy of such a sleek look. “They’re pushing us to be more open,” he said of his sons. “They are going to approach a different customer.” Let’s wait and see.
