Joseph has a new menswear designer named Francesco Muzi. Earlier in life, he worked for Z Zegna—and while Louise Trotter oversees all of Joseph’s output, Muzi has been in the men’s role for “a few months,” and, as to be expected, finding one’s footing takes time. Trotter did the talking.
“We try to make the men’s and women’s collections really tightly together,” she said. “There’s a heavy importance on fit and tailoring, but a renewed tailoring, so to speak. The proportions are slightly off. And the tonality is also essential.”
There were clear crossovers between men’s Fall and women’s Pre-Fall, like a stiff Japanese wool-blend textile in a blue-black-and-white scheme, “jumbo” corduroy pants, and Fair Isle and Prince of Wales treatments. But where the women’s side was exacted, the men’s didn’t seem as wholly realized; again, not exactly surprising, given that Trotter and Muzi have only worked together for a short period of time.
What was good: a micro-gingham checked shirt, tucked into flat-front pants (which were reiterated throughout). It created a nice long bodily line and supported Trotter’s “renewed” thought. Another standout was a brushed check car-slash-blanket coat, which was graphic and cozy-chic in tandem. Other parts, though, like blouse-y button-downs, heavy cardigans, and extended turtlenecks, didn’t come across quite as fresh. Let’s wait to see how things go once Muzi gets further settled.
