When Damir Doma got the green light to show at the Halle Am Berghain, Berlin’s most exclusive nightclub, the decision to bypass Fashion Week in Milan for one season was a non-issue, especially since the invitation came from Fashion HAB, a new initiative from the Fashion Council Germany, in partnership with Mercedes-Benz.
Having lived in Berlin for many years, Doma was also keen to connect back with that chapter. Whether this comes across in both collections is probably contingent on how well you know the city and local cultural references, from circa-1980s Männer Vogue, to circa-now techno DJs Barker & Baumecker, who played at his show. Was the designer a club kid? “Officially, I went to study, but at that time, it was so exciting,” he said, sounding a little wistful. This then-versus-now duality was what came through most in the looks, which went heavy on contrast. For so many years, Doma’s approach was one of rigorous coherence—and to some degree, this remains his strength.
Amid all the patterns on display in a Paris showroom—the vibrating blanket checks, textural jacquards, and vintage paisley scarf motifs—a trench in PVC bonded with ripstop became the hero piece. Also new this season was a Super 100s wool exclusively developed for him by Reda, the renowned Italian wool mill. As a twist, he applied the signature selvedge to the outside of his suit jackets and shift dresses, and it will be fun to see more of that. There were size markings of S, M, L on sportswear, a category he is keen to push, even if that customer doesn’t seem as obvious. One wonders how much after-hours Berlin flavor he will continue once back showing in Milan. The spray-painted effect on jersey and the lick of lime green down the uppers of python-effect boots might not seduce beyond the season, but the night itself seemed like a wild one.
