Creative director Stuart Vevers took Coach into the woods for Fall. He set the tone with a dimly lit forest on the runway, where smoke hovered ominously above piles of autumn leaves. There were old-school televisions strewn across the set that seemed to foretell some spooky Blair Witch Project–style narrative as well. The British designer has a deep affection for American pop culture, and has drawn on some of the nation’s landmark style references to help shape a compelling vision for Coach. If one had to sum up the story of this collection in a matter of words, then it might go something like “American Gothic goes to the Southwest.”
Models floated out like a gorgeous troop of well-dressed specters, with their pretty ruffled hemlines sweeping the floor behind them. Vevers has done an impressive job of pushing Coach beyond its humble roots as a heritage leather goods brand, and this season he took things up a notch yet again. The distinctive stand-alone power of his dresses was evident right out of the gate. Indeed the opening look brought all the craftsmanship of the popular Coach leather jackets—tassels, braiding, silver charms—to the idea of evening. And though the long-sleeved, high-neck silhouette was modest, there was a translucent allure and lightness to the dresses that felt fresh. The winter floral prints and paisley scarf patterns were a feminine foil to the brand’s wide range of streetwise outerwear. The show closed with a shimmering passage of lamé pleated dresses that offered a sophisticated alternative to the traditional sequined party number.
Selena Gomez was one of the first to make red carpet moves in Coach, stepping out at the Met Ball last May in a custom slip dress from the brand; she turned heads once again at the British Fashion Awards this past fall with an ethereal white satin Coach gown. The singer sat front row at the show this afternoon alongside stylish global celebrities such as New York rapper Joey Bada$$ and the adorable Japanese-American actress Kiko Mizuhara. Beyond the star-studded lineup lies a socially engaged audience of millennials who are tuning in to Coach’s newfound cool, thanks in no small part to Vevers. Given the collection he showed today, they’ll have even more reasons to stay plugged in.