The five-year old label CMMN SWDN, which was founded in Malmö, Sweden, but is now based in London, showed a Fall collection that told “stories about the complexities of coming-of-age, exploring both the physical and psychological changes of adolescence.” Designers Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund gave it the moniker, “Nostalgic Future.”
Again, we’re hearing the word nostalgia, and seeing it incarnated in different ways across the season thus far. For this pair, it came down to “the feeling of confusion you might have, and the insulation or protection you might want, as a teenager,” said Bakir. “And it’s about going back to an analog time,” added Hedlund. Wouldn’t that be nice . . . .
The clothes were good, and held up a knowing sort of awkwardness—that feeling we all had as we were growing into our bodies, and, in turn, our clothes. A strong navy-hued trench with tartan lining at the collar and flares at the sleeves could have been an iteration of what a boy might borrow from his father; a ribbed-knit camouflage sweater had sleeves that extended past the hand, implying, again, that the wearer wasn’t quite big enough to carry it off just yet. It was even present with clunky and oversize shoes.
On the flip-side, there were also contemporary and beguiling ideas, like a color-blocked and cropped techno-parka over a tailored suit. This was an instance of the designers thinking about what they’d wear in the future, which they rightly called “abstract.” In looking back, and tapping into a kind of modish gawkiness, Bakir and Hedlund delivered a collection that was thoughtful, a bit weird, and, on the majority, solid.
