When asked whether she considers herself a fashion designer now that her label, Ambush, has become increasingly multifaceted, Yoon Ahn demurred and replied, “I would rather think of myself as a storyteller.” On that basis, and after today’s presentation, the stories she tells continue to be partially personal, a little bit nostalgic, and translated into tangible things that express a fair degree of wit. With this sophomore ready-to-wear collection, she revisited the outdoorsy, functional aesthetic of where she grew up just outside Seattle. Until this summer, she hadn’t visited for six years. Once back in Tokyo, she had gained a new appreciation for the open air, the rainy weather, and apparel brands such as Eddie Bauer that cater to this lifestyle.
Catering to her lifestyle is, of course, a different story, and she found ways to make Eddie Bauer-ish clothing appear youthful and on trend. Obvious standouts included the rain gear with dramatic volumes; cargo pants vented at the knee and worn at half length; athletic pants in dressier, lightweight wool; and fleece you wouldn’t be embarrassed to wear. Polyester suiting nodded to teenage thrift store shopping; this, Ahn said, was the reason for the slightly gawky proportions rather than inferior construction—although the distinction was not as clear as it could have been. She reminded that the print of poppies was a Nirvana reference—their video for “Heart-Shaped Box.”
Ahn would hardly qualify as a grunge girl, yet she can figure out which references will resonate as her found-objects jewelry; this season, she settled on clothespin clips, guitar-pick pendants, and street chains. Most noteworthy, though, were the rows of colorful glass beads that splashed from open cuffs, and also from the edges of a gold headband, making for an enchanting, lighter alternative to drop earrings. As a significant improvement on an underexploited design idea, it stands a good chance of trickling down.
