To see fashion through a child’s eyes Jonny Johansson recruited a team of children to sketch this collection. Backstage after his crowded show-presentation hybrid, he explained that a group of school kids up to 14-years-old had delivered some drawings of clothes, whose naivety he had worked to integrate into the real ones. “It was a quest for pure creativity,” he said.
The work of these young brand consultants was evidently reflected in a 2-D felted gray V-neck T-shirt and in an opening sweater in a felted red on green wool whose elongated arms looked beguilingly both innocent and impractical. The same goes for the rustically applied woolen stars and rockets placed upon the chests of some fine-gauge knit sweaters. Oversize pants in an attractive abstract jacquard had a distinctive double pintuck crease on the outside of each leg, by coincidence a detail also seen at Ermenegildo Zegna this season. There were a few particularly lovely pieces, including some diamond-knit sweaters in mustard or bordeaux overlaid with startling wavy lines of pink and blue, respectively, and a pared-down duffle coat in blue whose shoulder patch was that same many-yarned jacquard. The duffle was both distinctive and fresh. Golden threads, some chewed pensively by models backstage, acted as jewelry. The presentation was a little flawed, but the collection was highly enjoyable.