“Something not exactly precise . . . something more vague” was the feeling that Junichi Abe said he was after with his latest women’s collection for Kolor. This type of answer is typically maddening stuff coming from a designer, but in this case, the irony was inescapable: Elements of this collection were actually the most approachable that they’d been in seasons. There was still the odd T-shirt widened across the middle via a balled-up tulle underlay, or a particularly elephantine pair of dropped-crotch trousers, but generally the presentation held a sincere feeling of balance.
Shrunken bomber jackets in fuchsia and khaki with orange piping seemed destined for streetwear ubiquity, as was the full-sleeved version in camo print (worn over a flowing black dress with Victorian-era ruching on the bust). Asian motifs, floral prints, and embroidered organza and chiffon were paired with men’s suiting fabrics like tropical wool and oxford cloth. Generally, the silhouette was one that was compact on top and looser on bottom. Interesting shirting seems to be the name of the game in the retail sector, and Abe complied: His pretty printed cotton top with sheer scarf detailing and safari-style cotton shirt with floral embroidered frills on the sleeves would be welcome additions to any modern wardrobe.
