The lights went down in Giorgio Armani’s Teatro and the back of the runway lit up with the word charmani. His program notes explained its meaning thusly: “the lightness of the body, seductively revealing itself, finding a new balance between discipline and freedom.” What that translated to on the catwalk was an emphasis on filmy fabrics in watery florals and iridescent textures that variously evoked scales, fishnet, and moonlight on the sea. Shorts were double-layered, the print encased within transparent silk for a bubble-like effect. (As enamored as Armani is with shorts, they’ll always be a hard sell.) Jackets for the most part had the ease of cardigans, fastening at the neck. There was fringe everywhere, and the outfits were accessorized to the hilt: large sun hats worn off the head, sunglasses, gladiator sandal–boot hybrids that extended halfway up the calf, earrings galore.
A few guys walked the runway in mismatched suits and trainers. Men are a somewhat rare sight at Armani’s womenswear shows, but they were especially welcome here after his excellent men’s collection in June. There was a clarity to his men’s jackets and pants, a compelling effortlessness, and his somewhat overwrought women’s day clothes didn’t necessarily benefit in comparison. What exceptions there were were found in the small evening offering at the end. A skirtsuit was looking right for after dark these days. The designer’s charming version features a sharply tailored jacket and wrap skirt in an over-embroidered deep navy print. And if you want gala-ready sparkle, be it in the form of an oversize blazer or a slinky column, he’s still your man.
