Giambattista Valli likes to make feminine fashion with a capital F, and his idea of beauty is rooted in classic romanticism. Like many designers this season, Valli has been pondering the clothes that are closest to a woman’s heart quite literally, meaning lingerie. The underwear-as-outerwear look has been propelled forward on the street thanks to the likes of Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner, who are regularly photographed shuttling between the gym and brunch in ab-baring crop tops and bralettes. In Valli’s hands, that look gained a flirty sophistication; when Hadid appeared on his runway today, she wore her satin bra and high-waisted undies with a delicate pleated lace skirt, and a taffeta jacket with puffed sleeves.
The idea of underpinnings was worked into buoyant, ballerina-style minidresses, too, the prettiest of which had lace ruffles snaking up the bustline and down the waist. Valli has a real thing for floral motifs, and this season the flower handiwork was articulated to give a sense of movement—one striking empire-line look fluttered with lace that appeared like hanging vines rustling in the wind. For women who prefer to leave a little more to the imagination, there was enough drama to go around with the statement-sleeve blouses, and off-the-shoulder gowns that were embroidered with the Roman-born designer’s monogram, perhaps the most rarefied take on the logo trend that’s come through for Spring 2017.
Valli’s inner circle of glamorous friends—Bianca Brandolini D'Adda, Lauren Santo Domingo, Eugenie Niarchos—were joined by a few unexpected faces on the front row, including French singer and actress Soko. In her long lace white dress and pretty pink heels, she had an air of elegance about her that was quite different from the grungy looks we’ve seen her wear in the past. If Soko is ready to ditch her high-fashion hoodies for straight-up ladylike chic like this, then the rest of the world might not be too far behind.
