Edun has a new “collective” of designers at the helm, but their names aren’t being revealed—at least, not yet. It’s a move to refocus Edun’s identity and underline the label’s core mission: to support business in Africa and elevate the continent’s rich, artisanal crafts. (The house also nixed a traditional Spring ’17 fashion show.) The sleek silhouettes the brand is known for are still there, but it’s put an even stronger emphasis on handmade details; the label’s CEO, Julien Labat, described it as balancing African inspiration with a streamlined, urban approach to dressing.
A 1970s Jack Garofalo photo of a woman in Harlem dressed in African clothing served as a visual clue. The ’70s were a major runway trend a few seasons ago, but the decade is still influencing how we dress—consider the cropped bell-bottoms, warm color palette, and suede accessories on the market right now. So Edun’s design team tweaked groovy silhouettes like zip-front dresses, skinny Lurex knits, and leather jackets with distinctive African details: A few jersey tees were hand-embroidered by a women’s group in Rwanda, for instance, and an A-line organic canvas slip dress was hand-painted by an artisan with abstract flowers. The collection’s hero pant—a slim flare that could be unzipped below the knee—came in that same hand-painted fabric, as well as a raw African denim (which is sure to be a hit) and mint green velour. Pants are a strong suit for Edun, but a white coat made of flowery lace and recycled polyester felt refreshingly feminine and new.
Edun is also introducing its first official handbag range, including a crocheted hobo and a square tote with big metal rings for handles. They’re exactly what their fans are likely missing in their wardrobes—but women who have never shopped the label will likely find the bags just as desirable. One of Edun’s strengths has always been that despite a cerebral, ethically minded m.o., the clothes don’t read crunchy or clichéd, and it was nice to see that’s still the case.
