Dondup’s creative director, Manuela Mariotti, has been busy lately. The company is undergoing major changes, spearheaded by a new president, Matteo Marzotto, and a new flagship store recently opened in Milan’s Via della Spiga. There’s no doubt Dondup is gearing up for a strategic new phase of international expansion.
Yet Mariotti keeps her cool, rebellious attitude about the brand she founded in 1999 intact. This time, Mariotti took inspiration from photographer Jim Naughten’s book Conflict and Costume: The Herero Tribe of Namibia. "There’s poetry and power in their way of dressing; they live a dangerous life, they confront war and hunger and displacement," she said. "Their costumes exude a sense of joy that no war can kill. They celebrate life; I wanted to bring this feeling into my collection." Traditional pastoralists, the Herero women still dress in striking costumes derived from Victorian dresses, layered over multiple petticoats. They also don horn-shaped hats made by rolled cloth or newspaper to symbolize the importance of their cattle. Mariotti was so impressed, she commissioned an artist to rework a picture of a Herero woman, which now hangs on a wall in her new store.
The collection revolved around the concept of layering and patchwork. Lines were kept minimal and easy while fabrics played a major role in highlighting the artisanal quality of the lineup. Silk velvet, linen, jacquard silk, madras, satin, and woven cotton canvas often mix and matched or combined together in a contrasting play gave a sensual yet raw feel to long tunics, dresses, and pants. The fit was loose and fluid; asymmetries, unfinished edges, and hand stitching accented the spontaneous, creative flair Mariotti wanted to convey. Case in point: a masculine, oversize shirt in silk madras worn off the shoulder over a pair of silk denim jeans. It made for a coherent offering, one of the best Mariotti has designed so far.
