Diesel girls do not usually go around wearing frilly, sugary, lacy frocks in dusty pink shades; they’re more of the tougher-than-nails types, all studded, ripped jeans and rock ’n’ roll attitude. But that notion will be quite outdated after today’s show. Leave it to Andreas Melbostad, Diesel Black Gold’s creative director, to shake things up with his well-mannered, calm, yet undeterred Nordic demeanor.
Melbostad was feeling romantic; well, his was a quite peculiar kind of romanticism. He was inspired by the controversial work of photographer David Hamilton and his ’60s and ’70s soft-focus pictures of very languid, very nude, and very young girls. Yet Diesel being Diesel, he injected a strong utility, army-surplus vibe into the fragility of the collection, which featured short baby doll dresses with Chantilly lace overlays, and broderie anglaise–ruffled miniskirts paired with field parkas and military-inspired oversize jackets. The feminine allure was further highlighted by a palette of nude, sand, and ivory and by elements of corsetry and lingerie gracing bustiers and laced-up tight pants. Even combat boots were given a girly spin. It made for a fresh take; Melbostad handled the play between sweetness and toughness with a dynamic flair. Yet hard-core Diesel fans need not worry; the brand is not going to embrace a full-on hyper-romantic aesthetic any time soon. “It’s about pushing the envelope and evolving every time, trying for a more comprehensive lineup,” said the designer backstage. “Duality makes for a fascinating play. There’s strength in fragility; there’s power in the feminine, vulnerable side.”
