I hope that you’re ready for neon, because neon is coming. What began in New York with Jason Wu and Sies Marjan and carried through to Milan with Emilio Pucci and Salvatore Ferragamo has now fully arrived in Paris, first at Paskal, and now with a vengeance at Barbara Bui. Marabou bomber jackets with baseball sleeves and thickly slick PVC suiting may have opened Bui’s show, but it was the flowing, flashy anoraks that closed it (more often than not wrapped around monokinis of similar shades) that evoked the sultry, over-the-top glamour of ’80s Miami. Worn with a T-shirt and jeans, they may very well be the easiest way to try a very tricky trend.
Bui’s previous collections have focused more on wearability, but this one seemed to swing fully into what’s now territory. Shiny patent fanny packs slung around the hips had an unexpected charm, while the dresses and cropped tops stayed flirty and one-shouldered, with the occasional vinyl side. Meanwhile, trousers, if they weren’t latex, tended to have peculiar, billowing pleats. There was the occasional cargo pocket, too. More approachable standouts included a filmy jacket with mosaic-style tile print on the hood and shoulders—a welcome addition to a wardrobe ready for spring showers.
