Pablo Coppola's Bally offering for Spring has a distinct Latin flavor. Explaining its genesis, he mentioned the opening of Cuba to American visitors (an event the fashion world watched, he pointed out, via Chanel’s Resort show) and this summer's Rio Olympics. Cuba, in particular, seemed to inform the bright pastel shades of the shoes. Flats are currently selling better than heels at Bally, so there were loads of loafers and babouche-style slides. An espadrille/loafer hybrid looked unique, especially in a crinkled gold tech material. Bags, including the new Balium (a play on the Bally name and the familiar drug, in the form of a shoulder strapped flap style accented with a large B) followed the same exotic color story, but, of course, they'll also be available in lower-key neutrals.
Clothing-wise, the Latin connection could be seen in the boxy guayabera-style shirts cut in paper-thin red or turquoise leather and in gaucho-esque wide-legged pants. Layering pieces like a leather mesh tank top and compact knits with tiny laser cuts were inspired by the protective wraps tropical fruit is shipped in. To round things out there were a-line shaped jackets and leather trenches with bold whip-stitching details. Two and a half years ago when he arrived at Bally, Coppola called the clothes “accessories to the accessories.” While they may remain a small part of the overall business, they now have a good deal of flair.
The Swiss company has grown during Coppola’s tenure. Stores in Tokyo and Los Angeles have opened recently, and a new Madison Avenue flagship is on the way. Bally isn't yet a thought leader; there were elements in this collection that took strong cues from the house’s bigger European competitors. But in a season that’s shaping up to be all about color, Coppola's Latin instinct was on the money.
