Christophe Decarnin’s 2011 departure from Balmain left a void in the market for a particular sort of strong, sexy, slick rock chick. It seems Alexandre Vauthier has stepped in to fill it. This, by the way, is a development that has not gone unnoticed by Vauthier’s high-profile fans such as Bella Hadid and Rihanna, who rely on the designer for traffic-stopping, figure-flattering party clothes like perfectly tailored tuxedos, feather bustiers, double-sided sequined organza gowns, and cropped hoodies—all of which work for club appearances, airport style moments, and red carpets alike.
Vauthier’s most recent lineup reflects a relaxed perspective, one that was probably influenced by the fair amount of success he has already achieved. He has taken a breath, and it shows. This collection was substantially larger than previous seasons’ offerings. Knitwear was the latest addition to the mix, which already includes shirting and shoes. A body-con miniskirt trimmed in gold hardware seemed destined to sell out, not least because it will be, Vauthier promised, “fairly priced.” A densely embroidered mirror-and-diamanté Perfecto and miniskirt may be slightly more cost prohibitive, but I would take bets that the ensemble will turn up on some lucky back before Paris Fashion Week ends.
For the millennials seeking their own viral moment, there were fishnet sleeveless hoodies, gravity-defying jersey separates, and boyish cotton undies with Vauthier’s name on the waistband. But more intriguing were the moments when the designer pulled back and really showed off—as with an expertly tailored black tuxedo or a structured minidress in a menswear twill he developed himself. A brushed-cotton coatdress in military green was all clean lines, nipped-in waist, and strong shoulders, the very picture of subtle, sophisticated sex appeal. It was also a lesson in rising above the scramble for Instagram likes: Real style doesn’t need to shout for attention.
