Acne Studios creative director Jonny Johansson isn't one for political fashion statements, preferring to make clothes that reflect experiences in his inner world. Given the current state of global events, however, it's almost impossible not to feel personally affected. The refugee crisis continues to dominate the conversation in Europe, and prompted Johansson to look for inspiration outside the borders of his native Sweden, toward the rich textile traditions of the countries where many have been displaced. The distinctive geometric motifs commonly found in Arabic nations, including Syria, were woven throughout the collection, with hefty sweater dresses that looked like they might have been cut from hand-knotted byzantine rugs, and kaftans that appeared like a patchwork of the scarves worn by nomadic tribes in the Sahara.
The oversize shapes and workwear silhouettes Johansson used to play out his references were far closer to the brand’s roots; a wise move on his part. In fact, it felt like the baggy dungarees and cropped denim pants embroidered with tonal paisley motifs were a return to the brand's core tenets: Lest we forget that the label used to have the word jeans in its name.
Johansson enjoys experimenting with extreme proportions, and the robe coats and jackets that were finished with utilitarian trimmings struck the right chord. The extensive selection of extra-thick, supersize sweaters and jumpers didn’t quite hit the mark, though, and would be tough to pull off for non-models. Those pieces tended to weigh down the offering, along with the sculptural wooden heels. Still, accessory magpies won’t be disappointed with the embellished lace-up slippers and the great paisley-printed shoulder bags. Jane Birkin, who sat front row next to New York rapper Mykki Blanco and French musician Soko, was pretty impressed; she was among the first to congratulate Johansson on the show. If her track record with accessories is anything to go by, then Acne Studios could be on to a winner.
