It’s no news that fashion is in a state of transition these days; as traditional rules are being questioned an experimental mode is turning the system on its head. Who knows where we’re going? Anyway, it’s an interesting time, to say the least. Alberta Ferretti joined the bandwagon, tapping into the current trial-and-error mood, giving a go to a sort of omni-channel format, which included in a single show a see-now-buy-now capsule, the Pre-Fall collection, and the upscale Limited Edition. Also, in order to have the gender issue covered, a few men’s looks were added for good measure.
Ferretti opened her stuccoed Milanese palazzo to a coterie of Italian starlets and socialites, which swarmed the sumptuous salons: “It’s like receiving at home in an intimate setting,” she said backstage. When asked to explain her decision to show three separate collections seamlessly, she answered, “I wanted to have a more direct approach to today’s challenging times. Besides, it’s a way to celebrate my creative process as a sort of loop, where one thing leads naturally to another.”
The show started with the Rainbow Week capsule collection, which was available online immediately after the presentation. An array of candy-color cashmere-blend sweaters, each emblazoned with the name of the week, were worn with fluid skirts in Chantilly lace. To give equal opportunities to both genders, spendthrift guys were also offered the chance to take advantage of the see-now-buy-now offer. A few angel-faced male models paraded around, wearing fluffy oversize versions of the sweaters paired with flowing pastel-color, lacy palazzo pants. They looked sweet, both the sweaters and the boys.
Then the mood sombered, darkening enough to evoke the gloomy elegance of a princess out of Game of Thrones. Black in countless shades and hues provided the canvas for a stream of fairy-tale-worthy numbers, where the designer’s flair for romance was unrestrained. A riot of flimsy tulles, see-through chiffons, sumptuous dévoré velvets, and intarsia laces were lavishly displayed, their ethereal preciousness heightened by exquisite embellishments and appliqués. Bias-cut or tiered delicate dresses were counterbalanced by evening coats of more substantial feel embroidered with floral motifs.
The last tier of this lovely yet quite titanic tour de force was devoted to the Limited Edition, where Ferretti indulged her passion for a couture-like, high-end version of ready-to-wear, made for special customers or stellar red carpets events. A breathtaking flow of liquid, mermaid-worthy bias-cut dresses in luscious white or red satin were glamorous enough that they could’ve made even the plainest girl next door look like a goddess. Karolina Kurkova, who’s actually quite the goddess even when wearing the plainest T-shirt, was majestic in a slinky gold number with a sexy plunging neckline. The swanky mink stoles embroidered with rhinestones will have all the top celebrity stylists lining up.
