Travel was a ubiquitous trend on the men’s catwalks this season, picked up by almost every designer. The general sense of displacement, both physical and mental, in our troubled times was most likely what triggered the countless renditions of the theme, a fitting metaphor not only for lighthearted escapism from an often brutal reality, but also for a hopeful attitude of free-spirited inclusiveness. After all, fashion is by definition an open-border global community. Yet for Peter Dundas, traveling has always been a natural choice that just suits his personality and upbringing: “I’m a nomad; sometimes I don’t even know where I live,” he said. The Roberto Cavalli men’s collection, which was presented in the showroom and will be shown together with women’s during Milan Fashion Week in September, was a testament to his penchant for a peripatetic albeit quite glamorous lifestyle.
It’s no secret that Dundas loves the ’70s, a game-changing moment in history defined by a libertarian attitude. “Freedom is everything!” he enthused. Plastered across the collection’s mood board were Mick, Keith, Brian, Jimi, and Rod. Dundas indulged his passion and flamboyantly paid homage; a magical mystery tour of artisanal clichés was deployed in the luxurious lineup. Japanese kimonos, ’20s piano shawls, Moroccan djellabas, embroidered tunics, ponchos, Scandi clogs, Turkish bath cloths, ikats, washed and patchworked denim, Western fringed leather jackets, and Italian brocades were all in the mix. “It’s an iconic rock star’s wardrobe,” the designer said.
Every single piece was exquisitely embroidered and hyper-embellished in true Cavalli style. Yet the attitude had a romantic, young vibe, highlighted by a louche undertone and a lived-in flair. Painted fingernails, coral and turquoise sautoir necklaces, messy curls, and skinny scarves were the accessories de rigueur. So similar is Dundas’s personal style to that of Cavalli’s that he could have easily modeled for the collection’s lookbook. He seemed particularly proud of a couple of over-the-top Nudie-style suits, replete with heavily embellished satin lapels, tight flared pants, and sequined waistcoats. “They’ll be perfect for my weekend at Glastonbury,” he said, grinning. Then, pointing out a flashy suede intarsia poncho in which it would be quite impossible to go unnoticed, he added, “And that’d be cool for Burning Man starting in August.”
