Manuela Mariotti, Dondup’s creative director, worked with a young design team for the label’s Spring 2017 men’s collection. A fresh, contemporary approach could be perceived in a lineup revolving around a basic wardrobe of simple daywear staples, which were given a modern spin. Volumes conveyed a ’90s vibe, translated in the slightly oversize proportions of outerwear and sweaters paired with high-waisted straight pants. Field jackets were as light as shirts and made in cotton seersucker; workwear-inspired striped pajama suits in thick cotton had a utility-urban look. Denim came in raw and stiff textures or was treated with a softer, washed finish for denim-on-denim trucker jackets and high-waisted pants combos.
“Travels, adventures, a globe-trotting attitude, that’s what the collection is about. And a bit of James Dean,” said Mariotti. “I wanted a clean, practical look, laid-back and with no excess.” And clean and practical it looked—and it certainly had a retail-friendly appeal. Yet Dondup is known for its free-spirited, slightly rebellious attitude, mixed with a touch of disruptive grunge. We’re definitely looking forward to seeing a more amped-up rebellion factor in the future.
