Cerruti 1881 experienced enough design volatility in its recent history that the sophomore effort from Jason Basmajian deserves to be met with a giant sigh of relief. The brand’s chief creative officer followed up his promising debut with a collection that continued his relaxed yet elevated philosophy sans interruption. Only this time he favored a paler palette—in particular, a barely there pink—and introduced a substantial denim range. Images of tree bark inspired what he dubbed a “camou-foliage” pattern, which projected naturally as greenish jacquard covering a blouson, abstractly as an intarsia pullover, and painterly as an evening jacket. Each distinct look often resulted from recombining similar elements, with some matches (i.e., a no-color tailored suit with covered buttons, or a nubby duster coat with cuffed khakis) more effortless than others. A double-breasted jacket and cargo pants seemed at odds; but then the pockets were an unnecessary flourish anyway.
Basmajian appears to be making monochromatic statements a signature; for a presentation, the effect is unifying. In real life, however, it is more limiting. Perhaps that’s why he pointed to the denim, which will exist within the main line, as the missing link to personalize his message. Italian-made and Japanese selvedge edge, the jeans were tailored with flattering proportions, while jackets and shirts were spared excess decoration. Basmajian confessed he’s not one for surface detail, which contributed to the collection’s overall coherence and lightness. Going forward, he can keep putting out more of a good thing, or determine what would make the collections great.
