Brunello Cucinelli had just got back from Florence, where he’d presented his Spring Summer collection to international buyers at Pitti Uomo. He was in a buoyant mood: “Now Italian Men’s Fashion Week starts from Florence and stretches out to Milan,” he enthused. “It’s becoming more and more an integrated format that balances trade and fashion.” This balance is what keeps Cucinelli’s style consistent—at least as consistent as his florid bottom line.
The label doesn’t stray from its signature look, yet every season a few elements are slightly adjusted to add freshness and a modern spin to its vocabulary. This was apparent in today’s lineup, presented as usual on a handsome casting of models, friends, and employees, making a point of its ageless, flexible, versatile quality. “The jacket is paramount,” said the entrepreneur. “I’m obsessive about the fit. It has to be près du corps, enhancing the shoulders, the waist, and the torso; yet it must be light. Easy. Not constrictive.” In Cucinelli’s world, wearing a well-cut, relaxed jacket on every possible occasion—be it formal or not—is absolutely not negotiable. He pointed out blazers in a zillion different iterations, made of the finest fabrics; they were paired with softly tapered drawstring pants and worn over elegant polo shirts or layered cotton T-shirts. Models, friends, and employees: They all looked quite cool—that is, in the Italian dapper-cool way. Even denim exuded a quite soigné attitude; it looked impeccable, meticulously ripped to perfection.
