The Barcelona-based, German-Persian designer Boris Bidjan Saberi was quick to clear up one potential misunderstanding: Those Hannibal Lecter metal mouth shields are not a statement about freedom of expression. Actually, it’s all about aesthetics and the complications of technological advancement.
“The main theme is half-human, half-machine,” the designer explained backstage in the sweltering last minutes before the show. The collection’s title, Post-Humanism, means that Saberi’s men forge for themselves whatever they might be missing. “It’s about improvisation and things that are self-made and incorporated into the body,” he said. “It’s invasive technology.”
When Saberi hones in on an idea, he pushes it to the limit. Here, the metal story played out as a study in color and texture as they relate to what happens when metal weathers the elements. “Natural industrial black metal degrades to brown and superficial rust is actually yellow,” Saberi observed. Hence the corroded palette, as in a pair of sulfur-hued, paper-thin boxing shorts in horse leather. Latex, vinyl, and wax treatments brought interesting textures to “road-drifter” silhouettes, defined by wrinkled drop-crotch trousers and the complex, architectural jackets and coats that are the designer’s strong suit. Sleeveless trenches were razor-sharp, while laser-cut vests with modular linings were paired with thermo-sealed canvas parkas with metallic taped seams. Even large openwork knits were dyed to resemble metal mesh, to striking effect.
These experiments ultimately led the designer into a project with the mountain-gear specialist Salomon, for whom he made a “trekking, running, mountain version of a sneaker.” On the runway, these were dyed yellow, although the ones the designer wears are black.
It remains to be seen whether men will embrace the corset-like vests Saberi calls “exoskeletons” (and those who do clearly roam free of a classic work environment). Says the designer, “Our inspiration is mostly artistic. I never have men—or women—in mind. In the end it’s just a reflection of my style.”
That style shows no shortage of ideas. It makes one wonder what the Saberi man might look like when he gets dressed to go someplace that’s not postapocalyptic. That could be pretty cool, too.
