Expressionist painter Egon Schiele inspired the latest Piazza Sempione collection. Art has always been a focal point for the label, and not just the kind that’s painted or sculpted; film and performance art have also been touchstones. Schiele’s soft lines and unusual palette informed the looser, more comfortable silhouettes and a few graphic prints, but the Italian label isn’t one to take a reference point too far. More important were the smaller details, like oversize buttons and the mix of primary colors with soft neutrals. Of course, what stood out most were the pants.
Pants are Piazza Sempione’s specialty, and it no doubt has a big business in black trousers and sensible stovepipes. But Resort’s new styles were surprisingly experimental. There were cropped, extra-wide-leg pleated khakis; flowy canary-yellow trousers with no side seams; and straight-legs with a flattering high rise. Next to those thoroughly modern pants, some of the other items felt quite dated, particularly the prints. The blown-up squares on a shirtdress felt, well, a little square, and the dress with hand-drawn lines would have been cooler in classic shirting.