How many times have you heard a designer name-check Brigitte Bardot? Countless, probably. Now how many times have you heard the name Jean Bouquin? A lot less, it’s a good bet. Well, it turns out Bouquin was a costume designer who dressed BB in some of her most famous getups. They appeared side by side on Lorenzo Serafini’s Resort mood board. That’s one of the perks of designer walk-throughs: picking up something new.
Serafini likes clothes that look like they had a previous life. Since he arrived at Philosophy, he has mined Brooke Shields’s ’80s and Siouxsie Sioux’s ’80s. This season he dialed the time machine back a decade and a half or so further. Bardot’s Riviera is beloved ground in fashion, so this collection felt familiar, but that didn’t stop it from looking sweet. Serafini’s got a thing for Liberty print–style micro florals, and they turned up on many dresses here, the best of which was patchworked with fringes of lace and descended below the knee. He showed a lot of the frocks with wide leather belts with big brass buckles (the belt is definitely a thing for Resort), but you could make a case for wearing many of the looks without them. Knits make up the other integral element of his collections, and he knows a thing or two about them. Cute Lurex stripe ribbed sweaters were lined so as not to be itchy. They didn’t do that in Bardot’s day. Girls eager to get their vintage fix will also go for Serafini’s sexy zip-front, low-rise flares.