Less than 48 hours after receiving the CFDA’s Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award, perhaps Norma Kamali’s path was clearer than ever—why change course now? After all, her unflagging pursuit of style that’s pragmatic, cool, and entirely her own is one of the most distinguishing characteristics of a nearly 50-year career. Rather than bow to the runways’ revolving door of novelty, for Resort Kamali went back to basics in the most essential way possible, zeroing in on wardrobe pillars. The emphasis fell squarely on reliability and affordability, with separates all clocking in at under $200 and coats under $400; every piece—from her long-sleeved crewneck to the famous Modern Sculpture dress—will be produced in sizes XS to XL. When they deliver, they’ll be available via the brand’s global e-store, launching later this month. Most remarkably, the bulk of the styles on offer were designed anywhere from 30 to 40 years earlier. “When I say they’re timeless, I’m not snapping your bra,” Kamali said with a laugh at today’s preview.
Indeed, nearly every item in the bunch felt planted firmly in this century, like an underwire midi dress with a sweeping skirt whose ilk surely saw a wild night or two at Studio 54 but felt supremely sexy still at 10:30 in the morning in 2016. “As simple as jeans and a T-shirt in its concept,” said the designer. She has rendered these pieces in black, charcoal, et cetera, but also bold, graphic stripes, a leopard-meets-camo hybrid, and cherry red metallic. “It only becomes fashion when it’s like this,” she offered, gesturing at a styled-up mannequin.
On the note of capital-F Fashion, Kamali continues to present her seasonal collections by appointment at her West 56th Street store, favoring animated stills that show the clothes on bodies in motion rather than a staged catwalk affair. “[Runway shows] can’t be what we do forever,” she says. The industry might do well to take note; after all, from athleisure to e-commerce, Kamali’s paved the way before.
