The big surprise at Narciso Rodriguez this morning was the print, a rarity at the label. Inspired by Japanese graphics, the sharply drawn blooms had an almost naive quality. A woman wearing the long-sleeved, floor-length dress in the motif at an arty New York gala this winter will receive plenty of attention. Otherwise, the news for Resort was the slightly more relaxed silhouette. “Sexy, easy, fluid,” was Rodriguez’s mantra. It came across clearest in dresses and tops with egg-shaped volumes and triangular arm holes that exposed a flash of rib cage. He created graphic interest on these pieces by splicing them with contrast colors for effects that looked organic or geometric.
Fans of his more familiar body-loving silhouettes aren’t out of luck, though. On the racks were a pair of sheaths with crisscross splicing on the bodice; in leather and a stretch wool, they’ll fit like a glove. He also added corset detailing to delectable cashmere sweaters. Elsewhere, his evening offering has grown. There were the bias-cut silk charmeuse slip dresses he’s known for, and a burnout velvet interpretation of the Japanese print on a sweet sleeveless dress. Most striking was a silk shantung gown in the palest blush pink with an asymmetrical shoulder line. In the photo here, it has the drama of a Greek marble statue, but the neckline is actually an adjustable sash, and very much in keeping with the “easy” portion of his mantra.
